Keeley Allen

urbanmoms.ca

Tire sur la neige. Bonhomme. Chateau Frontenac.

If you don’t know what these are, it may be time to head down to Quebec City for the final weekend of Carnaval. If you do, you already understand why you need to go again.

For those who have never taken a French class, Carnaval is the world’s largest outdoor winter festival. Held annually in Quebec’s capital, Carnaval originated as one of the of pre-Lent carnivals that take place in Roman Catholic communities across the world. It is, of course, no longer anywhere near Lent. The organizers probably figured that an icy carnival in February would be more fun than a slush-a-thon in March. They were so right.

A trip down to Quebec City can happen by train, bus, or car—or plane, but, like, really? Any of the first three will take about three hours, and will allow you to feast your eyes on the picturesque landscape of the Canadian highway. If you get bored of dead deciduous trees, or want something to eat, pull off at a highway stop and try some Valentine—the finest fast food Quebec has to offer. It’s just like an American fast food chain, but native to Quebec, so you know you’re doing good for a local community, the Earth, and your body. In any case, the poutine is to die for.

Once you get to Quebec, look out for the signs with the smiling white snowman with the red cap that looks like a Santa hat but isn’t one. This is Bonhomme, short for Bonhomme de Neige. He also wears a ceinture fléchée—a traditional French-Canadian sash, but you’ll only see this if you’re lucky enough to run into the real life Bonhomme. He’s fat and smiley and his face looks totally different than you thought it would. If he doesn’t climb into his tinted window bus before you get a chance to hug him, go for it.

You’ll also be able to see Bonhomme in full if you buy a $12 ticket to Carnaval, which comes complete with a mini Bonhomme action figure. I have that on my desk right now and I will treasure it always. Most of the activities in actual Carnaval that require a ticket are kid focused or fronts for corporate advertising. You can go on a zipline, but be sure to get the harnesses first (the two are actually located very far away from each other). A ticket will get you into the Ice Palace, which is pretty great, but it’s only a five minute walkthrough.

The best part about Carnaval, though, is enjoying all that gorgeous Quebec City has to offer. It’s touristy, but that’s fine because you’re there as a tourist. Check out the history—Chateau Frontenac is a gorgeous old railway hotel. The festival is right on the Plains of Abraham, where the British won Canada in the Seven Years’ War. There are monuments all over, and will be a great view of the water once the construction stops. There are art dealers selling cheap prints and beautiful paintings all over. There’s tire—hot maple syrup poured over ice to become some sort of magical toffee sensation, and there are the local bars, many of which are made of ice. Try the Caribou—a Quebec specialty shot—and sorlage, aka maple whiskey. While I was only there for the day, if you’re there for a while you’ll want to check out the parades. And make sure not to miss the outdoor dance party at Bonhomme’s palace (the only non child-oriented event that we could find), held from 7- 11 p.m. every night.

Places to eat: McDonalds. You won’t be able to afford anything else. But get some BeaverTails, poutine, and crepes along the way.

Places to drink: O-Zone. It sells pitchers for the price every other bar sells pints.

Carnaval du Quebec runs until February 13.  Check out details at carnaval.qc.ca.