At the very heart of Montreal, nestled alongside the bustling downtown blocks, is Montreal’s very own Quartier Chinois. Occupying roughly one square block, the neighbourhood is portrait-framed by four ornate Paifang gates—the most of any Chinatown in Canada—denoting the cardinal directions.
Robert Frost once said “Good fences make good neighbours,” and the same could be said of those gates. As picturesque as they may be, the four gates embody a fundamental tension of immigration: The desire to carve out a home that reflects your cultural identity, at odds with the ongoing pressure to integrate into Western society. The four sides of the micropolis stand as a physical way to claim the space in response to the ongoing decline of the Chinese population in the area caused by gentrification starting in the 1970s, yet also a reminder of the limitations faced by the Chinese diaspora, marking out what space does and does not belong to them despite being a multigenerational community contributing to the wider city of Montreal.
With a history that goes as far back as the mid-to-late 1800s, Montreal’s Chinatown is one of the oldest Asian communities on the continent. It was first referred to by the term “Chinatown” in 1902 by the French newspaper La Presse. The area was initially residential, following a new wave of Chinese immigrants that arrived from British Columbia after completing the transcontinental railroad in 1885. Many moved to Montreal in hopes of escaping the systemic discrimination faced on the West Coast, particularly the Head Tax legislation, which charged Chinese immigrants $50 CAD per person for the privilege of working in Canada, later raised to $500 CAD. The Chinese Exclusion Act of 1923 banned the entry of Chinese immigrants for 24 years, impeding family reunions and community development. As a result of this unique cocktail of circumstances and systemic discrimination, Montreal’s Chinatown garnered a reputation as a sort of sketchy bachelor society of Mahjong gambling and criminal network disputes. Reflecting on the underground political turmoils, the newspaper La Patrie would describe Chinatown in 1936 as a place where “a simple spark is enough to trigger a vendetta.”
Chinatown has changed a lot since the 1930s, becoming relatively commercial and tourist-accessible. It now intertwines historical reverence with a thriving participatory culture. As a result of a number of street widening and urban renewal projects introduced in the 1960s, Chinatown shrank by a third: Pagoda Park, three Chinese churches, a residential sector, and several family-run businesses were shut down to make room for the Palais des congrès, Complex Guy-Favreau and the Ville Marie Expressway. This, in turn, forced many residents to relocate, scattering much of the population to Côte-des-Neiges and Saint-Laurent.
Today, Chinatown has much to offer to students visiting the area. Sun-Yat-Sen Park centres Chinatown as a public square for people to socialize and enjoy taichi in the summer. Alongside it is the pedestrian-only strip mall of rue de la Gauchetière, where street festivals are held during the Mid-Autumn Moon Festival and Lunar New Year.
One of Chinatown’s famous features is its large and diverse food scene. Regardless of one’s taste, there is something for everyone. Visit the self-serve Hong Kong-style bakery Pâtisserie Coco or the Dragon’s Beard Candy stall for a unique sweet tooth treat. For a savoury fix, don’t miss out on soup dumplings from Sammi & Soupe Dumpling. If you’re in the mood for spice, Restaurant Kanbei specializes in Szechuan-style cuisine and is a local favourite for its numbing-spicy peppercorn flavours—try the Spicy Sichuan hot pot for the full effect. For an all-you-can-eat experience, Happy Lamb Hot Pot offers a free buffet for birthdays when you purchase a soup base. Don’t forget to swing by G&D Supermarket for all your Asian grocery needs.
As Montreal’s Chinatown continues to grow and evolve today, it remains a living testimony to the resilience and cultural pride of the community which helped shape it, offering both a rich history and an accessible culinary experience for visitors and students alike.
