When Montreal’s winter becomes too harsh, a temporary escape to Little Portugal offers a charming refuge. The neighbourhood exudes the warm, laid-back atmosphere of southern Europe, even as snow piles up and plows roam the streets. Situated in the western portion of the Mont-Royal Plateau, Little Portugal stretches along several blocks of Blvd Saint Laurent, between Ave des Pins and Marie-Anne St. Given that Montreal is home to a thriving Portuguese community with over 40,000 residents, Little Portugal is filled with many shops, cafes and restaurants reflecting the country’s rich and unique culture.
According to Joaquina Pires, author of “Empreintes Portugaises,” a book highlighting the marks left by the Portuguese community in Montreal, the first wave of Portuguese immigrants arrived in 1953. As Canada and Portugal strengthened political and diplomatic ties, many Portuguese men immigrated to Montreal in search of better opportunities. By the 60s and 70s, they started to bring their families, leading to successive waves of immigration, primarily from the Atlantic islands of the Azores.
“Most people came to Montreal from the Azores due to the political and economic situation of the country. They were looking for better living conditions and opportunities,” Maria do Céu Castanheira, owner of the local business Coco Rico, explained in an interview with The Tribune. “A lot of families also came to Montreal in the 70s, especially after the 25th of April revolution in Portugal.”
In an interview with The Tribune, Pires elaborated on why the Portuguese community settled in this particular area of the Plateau.
“They mainly established themselves in this area of the Plateau because houses and real estate were decaying and cheaper. The community mobilized to repair the houses and
was able to restore them,” Pires explained.
As Portuguese culture flourished, many immigrants opened businesses, shaping the neighbourhood’s identity. Castanheira’s father opened the first Portuguese business in the area, Castanheira do RibaTejo, after immigrating to Montreal in the 1960s. Over time, the neighbourhood became visibly multicultural while maintaining many strong elements of Portuguese culture.
In 1975, the Parc du Portugal, located on Blvd Saint Laurent between Marie-Anne St. and Vallières St., was renamed to honour the Portuguese community of Montreal. This key feature of the lively neighbourhood was designed by the landscape architect Carlos R. Martinez in 1980. It features many colourful tiles inspired by Portuguese architecture. One of the city’s standout features is the Azulejo Mural, visible from Parc du Portugal. It was made by community members, involving the work of retired Portuguese citizens and art lovers, under the direction of Paulo Jones, Maria do Céu Castanheira’s husband.
“The mural was made in honour of the Portuguese community in Montreal but also to thank Canada for welcoming us. It was a gift from Portugal to the city,” Castanheira elaborated.
From the park, visitors can also spot an impressive painting of Portuguese singer Amalia Rodrigues. It is a tribute to the famous fado artist, a traditional musical genre in Portugal.
“It was a community project that was made under the direction of Paulo Carreira but made by the people of the neighbourhood,” Pires highlighted.
In addition to its architectural charm, Little Portugal is home to numerous traditional Portuguese restaurants that bring the rich and flavorful essence of Portuguese cuisine to Montreal. Pastéis de Nata, Portugal’s famous custard tarts, can be enjoyed at Coco Rico after a delicious roasted Portuguese chicken. Casa Minhota offers a classic Portuguese menu that includes sardines and bacalhau (cod).
Due to its proximity to the McGill campus, Little Portugal is also home to many McGillians who have decided to adopt the Plateau lifestyle and embrace Portuguese culture.
“I love this Portuguese bakery that’s really close to where I am called Patisserie notre Maison. It’s probably my favourite part of the neighbourhood,” Steph Doerksen, U1 Engineering, told The Tribune. Little Portugal is an essential part of Montreal, as a vibrant and living representation of the city’s immigrant story. This rich cultural enclave makes Little Portugal a must-visit and an unforgettable part of Montreal.
