Tucked on a quiet stretch of St. Laurent below Villeneuve Street, Robin des Bois possesses all the characteristics you’d expect from a well-heeled Plateau bistro: candles on the tables, a sophisticated wine list, and canard confit on the menu. The one thing it’s lacking? Profits.
Despite this, Robin des Bois is not a failing restaurant, but rather one based on an unusual concept. The four-year-old bistro donates nearly all of its proceeds to local charities, and is run largely by volunteers, with chef Julie Rabouin as one of the few exceptions.
If nothing else, this conceit would make Robin des Bois—named for the mythical rogue of Sherwood Forest—a great place for a multitasking meal: Chianti and charity at the same time. Fortunately for its patrons, Robin des Bois offers excellent fare as well as charitable satisfaction.
On a recent evening, my date and I both ordered the superb bavette de boeuf, passing up the more exotic options like the Tunisian shrimp. It was a good choice. The steak, substantial and succulent, came bathed in a sauce of shallots and red wine that was difficult to resist drinking off the plate. The accompanying salad was good enough, but the fries, which spilled gently onto the steak, were the real attraction on the side—crispy and almost as good as the addictive ones at Frites Alors. They even came with a red pepper aioli, served in a small cup.
We presumed our waiter was a volunteer, but that didn’t stop him from suggesting an excellent California Syrah, from the enigmatically named Smoking Loon Wine Company. Though I’m not a wine expert, our bottle’s strong, smooth notes set the steak off quite nicely.
Despite the restaurant’s charitable mission, Robin des Bois is slightly less charitable to the wallets of students who may dine there; entrées run from about $13 to $20, and wine, of course, is extra. Still, the bistro’s an elegant alternative to more popular downtown spots like L’Entrecôte Saint Jean, which serves a much lesser steak frites. Once in a while, it’s worth it. Sadly, though, the bill is not tax deductible.
Robin des Bois, located at 4653 St. Laurent Boulevard, is open for lunch and dinner on weekdays and for dinner on Saturdays. It is closed on Sundays. Reservations are not accepted.
