The world of haute cuisine is a mystery: what happens in the kitchen is usually kept secret, and what comes out is invariably delicious, beautiful, and expensive. Every dish has a deliberate balance of textures, flavours, and colours. Similarly, every restaurant has a clearly defined balance of power that inevitably shapes the product.
In the documentary Step up to the Plate (Entre Les Bras), viewers finally receive access to the Bras family, owners of a 3-Michelin-star restaurant that is about to see one of the most closely-watched power transfers in the restaurant world. Situated deep in the beautiful Aubrac region of France, the restaurant sits atop a mountain both physically and symbolically—it is currently ranked among the top 50 restaurants in the world, and was as high as no. 6 in 2007. All eyes are on it as Michel Bras steps back, and hands control over to his son Sébastien, who was practically raised for the role.
Directed by Paul Lacoste, the film seeks to explore the family history and dynamics in order to predict the restaurant’s future. How will the dishes, and the fate of the restaurant change as a result of the new leadership? It is a question that not even the members of the Bras family can answer.
The movie itself is astonishingly simple and crisp; the audience is drawn to the food and the family more than anything else. The chefs are the true artists here, not the filmmakers, whose role is simply to capture food-as-art on camera. This is done flawlessly. A highlight of the narrative is Sébastien’s quest to create his own new masterpiece, which takes an enormous amount of time, technique, and artistry. There is no epic music or hectic distraction; instead viewers are forced to focus intensely, just as Sébastien does, as the dish comes together. Only when it is complete do we see what he saw all along—a brilliant combination of elements that only a master chef would have been able to envision. The preparation of this dish is unlike anything you can find on the Food Network or YouTube, and for this reason alone, the movie is a must-watch.
The father-son relationship is a classic dynamic, yet remains unique in the film—both clearly have enormous respect for one another, but the equilibrium of power is still very much teetering as the father relinquishes his responsibilities. Sébastien is eager to take over; he wants to maintain continuity but sees opportunity to show his own identity in the food. Meanwhile, Michel watches closely to make sure the integrity of the dishes remains intact, and the quality is as high as ever. As their family and friends agree, “It’s not a revolution; there is continuity.” Consequently, the world can expect the restaurant to remain one of the best—though under new leadership, it’s still in the family, and that in itself is a guarantee of excellence.
In this documentary, audiences get a clearly defined sense of how a delicate power transfer can be accomplished. Step up to the Plate offers a unique exploration of a family-owned, world-renowned haute cuisine restaurant, an opportunity that is not to be missed.
Step up to the Plate is showing until Feb. 21, 7:15 p.m. at Cinema du Parc (3575 Avenue du Parc). Student tickets $8.50.
