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ABCs of Science, Science & Technology

La vie en jaune: Preventing damage caused by blue light

Midterm season is approaching, and with it, many hours of studying. After long periods of staring at a laptop screen, eye strain can break focus levels. Two factors cause this deterioration in focus: Intense concentration on an object within close proximity of our eyes, and the ‘glare’ of the blue light emitted from laptop screens.

“Light is the stimulus of the retina but can also have a detrimental effect on our eyes depending on its intensity, direction, and composition,” Pierre Lachapelle, professor in the McGill Department of Ophthalmology and researcher at RI-MUHC, said. “Blue light is more damaging to the retina than red light. That has been known for years.”  

However, he attributes  intense focus on the laptop or phone at hand equally as responsible for damage.

“When you are focused on a screen, the muscles in your eyes are constantly contracted,”  Lachapelle said.

“This muscle contraction is unnatural, and therefore very tiring, especially when […] prolonged.”

Blue light coming from our screens has higher energy and shorter wavelengths that reach deeper into the retina—cumulatively causing more damage. For this reason, screens have an eerie glow at night compared to our surroundings.

Both for work and for pleasure, students’ dependency on screens is inescapable. Because swearing off electronics before bedtime during exam season represents an impossible task, Lachapelle provided a couple tricks to help lighten eye strain.

“What [I would] suggest is to look at a target 10 metres away from you from time to time,” Lachapelle said. “This way, you are giving your eyes a break from concentrating on a screen which is usually within 30 centimetres of your face, which is really close.”

This action counteracts some of the strain caused by the proximity of the screen and the intensity of our concentration.

Mediating the ‘glare effect’ of blue light requires changing the shorter wavelengths to longer ones—or reducing the amount of blue light in the screens. Lachapelle’s advice is to wear a yellow spectacle to filter out shorter wavelengths. Apps like F.lux can provide this service.

F.lux applies a filter to the light from your computer, adapting it to the user’s local time of day. This feature automatically allows laptop screens to blend into the colors of light emitted by their surroundings. At night, F.lux adds red undertones to the backlight of screens in order to omit the blue—and shorter—wavelengths of light. The screen’s light looks ‘softer’ and more yellow, so there is significantly less eye strain and glare from the screen. The effect makes reading long articles or typing for extended periods of time less damaging to one’s retinal health. Furthermore, apps like F.lux make concentrating easier, since the eyes tire more slowly. However, young students have an advantage over older students.

Young eyes can adapt more easily to changing light conditions than older individuals.

“As we age, the ability of the eye to accommodate [to] different lighting situations deteriorates, so an older person would probably have more fatigue than a college student,” Lachapelle explained.

We cannot abuse this advantage though—because young people are not immune to eye strain and fatigue.

The long-term effects of prolonged exposure to screens remain a mystery. Perhaps screens will cause degeneration of the retina, or perhaps not. For now, these short-term solutions help minimize the negative effects of blue light on health—particularly during exam season.

Features

The irony of social media

If there’s one word to describe our generation, it’s ‘connected.’ We’re connected to each other, to events, to pop culture—and it is all a mere touch-screen away. We have hundreds, sometimes thousands, of ‘friends’ and ‘followers’ who like our posts and pictures—but something is missing. Despite the web of relationships social media provides us with, we are lonely.

On Sept. 2, Frank Bruni, a columnist for ///The New York Times///, addressed the epidemic of loneliness plaguing college campuses, and how the use of social media can be seen as a major cause.

“They’re lonely,” Bruni wrote of university students. “In a sea of people, they find themselves adrift. The technology that keeps them connected to parents and high school friends only reminds them of their physical separation from just about everyone they know best.”

Arts & Entertainment, Film and TV, Private

‘The Road Forward’ is an ever-vital call to attention on colonial injustices

On the night of Sept. 21, the Arts West Wing hosted a National Film Board screening reminding tearful students of the hardships that Canada’s indigenous population continues to face today. As part of its 7th annual Indigenous Awareness Week, McGill’s Indigenous Student Alliance (ISA) screened The Road Forward (2017), a documentary written and directed by Marie Clements. The film showcases the difficult journey that First Nations Peoples endure in order to survive in a settler colonial country. Through a powerful mix of both traditional and contemporary indigenous music and cinematography, the film explores salient, age-old questions with new forms of media and communication. As the credits roll, it is clear that The Road Forward succeeds at showing the audience just how much hurt still exists within this country we often admire.

The Road Forward captures viewers’ attention through the use of songs and powerful testimonials. This multimedia approach to documentary filmmaking, with contributions  from a variety of creators, enables often uneducated viewers to interact with indigenous issues in a new way.

The documentary focuses on an indigenous newspaper called The Native Voice, which has played an integral role in publishing and connecting indigenous voices across the country including influential union groups like the Native Brotherhood.

The Native Voice is one example of Indigenous peoples creating their own spaces to discuss issues of importance—the film itself acts as another. Clements, being Métis, likes to use the traditional concept of storytelling to communicate with the audience. She has made a variety of films and documentaries specializing in showing how indigenous music can heal and strengthen the indigenous community. In her previous work, she explored National Inquiry for Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women.

One headline in The Native Voice reads: “1965: Indian Reserves Compared to Concentration Camps.” While purposefully uncomfortable viewing for a predominantly white audience, the film insists upon educating youth as a means of defeating the patterns of erasure pervading Canada’s history. Throughout the documentary, there are many powerful statements that make the audience think critically about abuse, exploitation, and reconciliation. The aforementioned headline was accompanied by two black-and-white photographs of an Indigenous reserve. Both photos revealed the reserves’ dire conditions, with the shocking reality that one of the pictures was taken in 2013. These pictures are what force audience members to have uncomfortable conversations—they’re meant to shock, but they’re also meant to promote a much-needed dialogue between Indigenous and non-Indigenous Peoples.

A brief discussion with the ISA after the movie led to students asking how they can help. This question was hard to answer, but the ISA students said that education is an important start. For instance, it is surprising how many people do not know about Residential Schools and the 60s Scoop—the government-sanctioned kidnapping of thousands of indigenous children for adoption. Due to this ignorance, indigenous protesters today are fighting for the same rights that were demanded centuries before. The Road Forward may not tread much new ground in terms of subject matter, but its message is just as vital as it always has been.

 

Commentary, Opinion

Playing the polite host: How Harbison critics made a statement without saying anything at all

As I sat waiting for George Harbison’s “The Victims of Socialism” talk, hosted by the Conservative Association at McGill University, one thing was clear: Its organizers were hoping for the best, but had prepared for the worst. A uniformed security officer guarded the door, and several more were inside, along with at least one in plain clothes. The Conservative McGill executives, seated in the front row, seemed to be making nervous small talk. Their anxiety wasn’t without cause: In the days prior, the event’s Facebook event page had degenerated into a lawless Internet brawl, replete with accusations of threat-making and white supremacism. While Harbison’s talk consisted mostly of recapping the undeniable atrocities committed by communist regimes, he went on to claim that left-wing academics possess an “intellectual, self-serving pathology.”

And then… nothing. No chanting protestors, no shouting audience, and no pulled fire alarms. The talk was completed without interruption. During the Q&A session that followed, several audience members made comments challenging Harbison, which generally led to brief, civil debates. At 6:30 p.m., the event ended and everybody went home.

And that was it for “The Victims of Socialism”. By the next morning, it seemed everybody had forgotten about Harbison and the event itself. I’ve certainly heard no mention of either since, and rightly so: 90 minutes of juvenile Reagan-worship isn’t worth the mental storage. By not showing up to protest, the event’s opponents issued the greatest condemnation of all—irrelevance.

Compare the quietude at "Victims of Socialism" with the infamous men’s rights talk at the University of Toronto in 2013, where disruptors pulled a fire alarm and forced a temporary evacuation; or the more recent airhorn-blowing protest at a Jordan Peterson talk at McMaster University. Admittedly, Harbison’s topic doesn’t have the same personal resonance as the social rights issues of these other talks, but the mud-slinging discussion generated on the event’s Facebook page showed that it still had definite potential to incite conflict.

For all the debate about whether no-platforming is morally right, we’ve forgotten to ask if it’s effective.

The aforementioned protests have been described as attempts to “no-platform” speakers. That is, counter-protesters show up to prevent them from using a university event to spread their views. Proponents of no-platforming believe it is the best way to quarantine bigoted ideas. Opponents see it as censorship and worry about a creeping loss of freedom of speech.

But “no-platforming” is a misnomer. With their sound and fury, attempted no-platformers capture the media spotlight—and invariably share it with the speakers they seek to suppress. All of that attention gives the speaker access to a new, much larger audience, some of whom will find the speaker more persuasive than the protestors. In this way, protestors have been duped into doing their enemy’s work for them, boosting the influence of the enfants terribles they want silenced. For all the debate about whether no-platforming is morally right, we’ve forgotten to ask if it’s effective.

This is doubly true south of the border, where student rioting at an attempted Milo Yiannopoulos talk at UC Berkeley received national cable news coverage. Overnight, an alt-right groundling, previously concentrated in the great media latrine Breitbart, was on the news in every living room in North America. And he brought his jargon with him: Who could have imagined ‘cuck’ would enter our national vocabulary? Yiannopoulos could only have dreamed of creating this kind of exposure by himself.

It’s unfair to dismiss no-platforming’s proponents as whiny liberals or social-justice fundamentalists. Most are motivated by an earnest concern for the well-being of minority students and see no-platforming as the best way to stifle hate speech. But, no-platforming is more than tragically ironic; it is divisive. Moderate liberals are social justice advocates’ ideological kin, but many of them are turned off by tactics that they see as threatening free speech. Consequently, two of their deeply held values are pitted against each other—concern for minorities and social libertarianism. In making moderates choose between them, activists risk alienating potential allies.

The student body’s response to Harbison’s “The Victims of Socialism” talk was immaculate. Those who disagreed with him expressed themselves with admirable civility. And most importantly, they didn’t gift him free publicity. While it’s unfortunately fashionable to bash the media these days, one criticism is true: It loves a good circus. Students were wise to not to greet the visiting elephant with trumpets and fireworks.

 

Keating is a U0 in the Faculty of Arts planning to study political science. He’s often found reading the news and grumbling in his bathrobe.

 

 

 
Football, Sports

Laurent Duvernay-Tardif proves his value to the emergent Chiefs

Unpredictability has been a motif in Kansas City Chiefs guard—and former McGill Redman—Laurent Duvernay-Tardif’s career. Picked in the sixth round of the 2014 NFL Draft, Duvernay-Tardif became the only McGill alumnus to earn a spot on an NFL roster. In his offseasons, he is working toward a medical degree at McGill—an unprecedented, nigh-impossible feat for an NFL player. After failing to see regular-season action in his rookie season, the now 26 year-old’s professional football prospects were questionable at best. He proved ready when called upon, starting in 13 of 16 games after injuries cleared his path to playing time.

Duvernay-Tardif took a large step in 2016, transitioning into a reliable offensive lineman who would start each game he was healthy enough to play in. During the ensuing offseason, the Chiefs rewarded him with a five-year, US $41.25 million contract, making him the 11th highest-paid guard in football.

It would’ve been safe to assume—as that contract would indicate—that the 321-pound med student would plateau after his third season: NFL players usually experience just one notable uptick in production across their careers, which almost always occurs in their first three seasons. Again, Duvernay-Tardif has surprised the football world, as the start to his fourth season suggests he has made his third major NFL progression.

In just a few games, “LDT” has displayed an upgraded skill set. He’s cleaned up his pass blocking technique, which allows him to effectively channel his inherently dominant power and athleticism. Meanwhile, he’s vastly improved his football intelligence while run blocking. Both traits were at full display in his Week 2 matchup against the Philadelphia Eagles, where Duvernay-Tardif easily got the best of Pro Bowler Fletcher Cox, one of the league’s best defensive linemen. Evidently, he has been similarly effective in his other games.

Duvernay-Tardif’s contribution has helped the Kansas City offensive line reach new heights in 2017. Analysts at Football Outsiders rank the unit first in the league at run blocking, laughably far ahead of the rest of the pack. Duvernay-Tardif is arguably the best member of the rock-solid offensive line group, playing a leading role in clearing gaping holes for rookie-sensation Kareem Hunt to run through.

This development up front has catalyzed a greater breakthrough for the entire team. In years past, the Chiefs have struggled to put points on the board, relying instead on their defence to shut down the opposition. Heading into 2017, the Chiefs were a top candidate for regression, with an aging defensive line and another disappointing offensive performance appearing imminent. However, with a restored running game, the Kansas City offence has opened up and scored points at an impressive clip. Coupled with a still-strong defensive unit, the Chiefs are reaching new heights in 2017. Better yet, the good times shouldn’t be coming to an end soon.

Signed to a long-term contract that looks to be increasingly favourable to the Chiefs with every game he plays, Duvernay-Tardif is a well-suited, lasting match with Kansas City. On an offence that should continue to rise, he will stop pass rushers in their tracks and create opportunities for Hunt for years to come. In the offseason, the Chiefs should continue to be flexible with his ultimate goal of becoming a doctor. Perhaps what makes the Chiefs the best fit for LDT, however, is that, like him, they carry their own unpredictability: After the football world largely left them for dead in 2017, the Chiefs—with the McGill man’s help—have become a member of the NFL’s elite.

Campus Spotlight, Student Life

Campus Spotlight: McGill Permaculture Club

Sustainability and ethics are the two general pillars of a form of agriculture known as ‘permaculture.’ A combination of the words ‘permanent’ and ‘culture,’ the term refers to the development of sustainable and ethical agricultural ecosystems. The practice—and the 12 specific principles behind it, which advocate for reducing  waste, increasing biodiversity, and using resources efficiently within one garden space—was invented in 1978 by Australian ecologists Bill Mollison and David Holmgren. Eventually, the agricultural tradition expanded out of Australia and is now widely used in courses, institutes, and on farms all over the world.

The McGill Permaculture Club, founded by Audrey Wagner, U3 Environment, brings this knowledge and practice to McGill students. In an effort to attract potential volunteers and raise awareness about the potential of permaculture, the club recently hosted their Permaculture Week at the Macdonald Campus. They coordinated over 10 different events, including tours of the student-built permaculture garden, gardening workshops, and an Iron Chef competition using food grown in the garden.

“What [permaculture] really is, is you’re trying to mimic nature,” Wagner said. “It’s based on three ethics, [mainly] earth care, people care, and fair share […Permaculture] has a very ethical core […] that goes beyond sustainability.”

The Macdonald Showcase Permaculture Garden Project—which Wagner developed with the help of Christopher Wrobel, a 2009 McGill graduate (M.Sc Science)—occupies a formerly-unused space by the Farm Centre at the Macdonald Campus. Over the summer, Wrobel and other members of the club built the garden with permaculture principles in mind. One such principle is creating a full ecosystem within a single garden space—so Wrobel and Wagner planted non-edible plants such as milkweed and borage to attract pollinators.

The garden project includes many edible plants as well, including tomatoes, apples, peas, and a hybrid blueberry plant containing three different species on one bush. Many of the plants in the garden are perennials, meaning that they grow back year after year rather than dying after one season and needing replanting—and this isn’t by coincidence.

“Perennials grow back every year, so we don’t have to disturb the soil [or the plant roots] as much,” Wagner said.  “[Another reason] why we plant perennials is because […] we want to work with nature. We want to facilitate [the] succession [of nature from bare soil to forest].”

Wagner’s goal is for the garden to become entirely self-sufficient. One way to achieve this is by adding swales, which are dug out tracts of land outside a garden that collect and filter rainwater, decreasing the need for watering.

“In a permaculture system, we want to try to have the least amount of input possible,” Wagner said. “We don’t want to add any fertilizer. Even though we originally added compost [to the soil], a few years down the road […] we want it to be a closed loop.”

For now, the permaculture garden is still in its early stages. The plan for the future is to expand the garden by growing a wider variety of plants and at a greater quantity of so that the Permaculture Club can someday produce enough fruits and vegetables to sell to students and donate to local food charities. The Permaculture Club has a downtown branch as well, which Wagner believes will help promote the project and build connections between downtown and Macdonald Campus students.

“[We want] permaculture knowledge to be accessible to all McGill students, not just Mac Campus students,” Wagner said.

For Wagner, permaculture is not only about the impact it has on the environment, but also about changing students’ views on agriculture and how it affects the planet. 

“Generally, [environmentalists] think of [humans] as a destructive force leaving an ecological footprint,” Wagner said. “We don’t really talk about how good of an impact we can make [or] how we can make [our land] better than it was before we found it.”

McGill Martlet Rugby
Martlets, Sports

McGill Martlets rugby resilient in loss to Carleton

On Sept. 30, a sunny fall day, the McGill Martlets women's rugby team (0-5) took on the visiting Carleton Ravens (3-1). Carleton took an early lead, but the Martlets rallied in a losing cause to finish the game with a 33-21 scoreline.

Carleton pulled ahead with a dominant first half: They scored two tries in the first 25 minutes, and kept the Martlets from breaking out of their own half. The Ravens led 12-0 as the squads headed into the halftime break.

Early in the second half, Carleton scored two more tries, widening the gap to 26-0, but the Martlets refused to go down without a fight. In the 53rd minute of play, forward Dori Yeats scored McGill’s first try of the game. Spurred on by Yeat’s efforts, the Martlets pushed for another try and were rewarded when Emily Challice scored their second try only five minutes later.

Buoyed by that momentum, the Martlets secured a third try—a team effort driven by big runs from centres Madeline Avery and Nicole Deacon. McGill managed to quell Carleton’s offence for much of the second half, fighting to keep the ball off the ground in the try zone, and making big tackles close to their own line.

“I think that we had a lot of momentum going,” Challice said. “We kept possession, we were winning our own ball, [and] had a lot of good line breaks the entire game.”

The Ravens eventually managed to score an additional try, but the Martlets maintained their high work rate and were competitive in their individual matchups for the remainder of the game.

Though the team was dealt its fifth consecutive loss of the season, spirits were high in the McGill camp after the final whistle. Head Coach Magali Harvey, who is partway through her first season, credits the resurgence to their fitness level and spoke highly of the team’s tenacity.

“From beginning to end, we pushed,” Harvey said. “Often, when we get scored on two or three times, we just stop playing. This time, we kept going, and […] we scored tries and we played as a team.”

The Martlets have two games left in their seven-game season: A home tilt with Bishop’s University on Oct. 6, and an away game against Université de Montréal on Oct. 14. After a difficult start, Harvey was encouraged by Saturday’s result, and hopes the team can continue to grow for the rest of the season.

“A lot of [our] players who are starting right now are rookies, first years, second years, so they haven’t done a lot of rugby in their lives,” Harvey said. “At this point, seeing this game, I really think we can win both [of our remaining] games.”

Since winning the RSEQ championship in 2013, McGill has struggled to make an impact in their talent-heavy conference. Prior to Saturday’s match, the Martlets lost by large margins to league-leading Ottawa and Laval squads, but the team was reassured by their result against the Ravens. Challice, a fifth-year anatomy and cell biology student, is happy with the progress the team has made in her tenure, and shares Harvey’s positive outlook on the team’s future.

“For the last couple years, we’ve had a rough go of it with our team,” Challice said. “Now we’re a downtown team. All of our practices are downtown, which allows us to have a lot more practices, a lot more commitment, and I think that’s really going to push this team.”

 

Moment of the game:

In the 58th minute of play, eight-man Emily Chalice picked the ball out of a ruck and dove across the line, scoring McGill’s second try of the game.

 

Stat of the game:

Kicker Dana Silvera went 3-for-3 on her conversion attempts.

 

Quote of the game:

“I think really, after this game, we’ve seen that we can get numbers on the board. It’s not out of reach.” – U3 Civil Engineering student and Martlets rugby forward Dori Yeats.

Student Life, The Viewpoint

Viewpoint: My study abroad experience

This past summer, I spent six weeks studying French language and literature at Middlebury Language Schools, an intensive program at Middlebury College in Vermont. The experience not only improved my French as expected, but also opened my eyes to the educational possibilities availably beyond the Roddick Gates.

Prior to registering for the program, I had decent experience studying French at a university level, but I craved more opportunities to speak outside of the six hours of class time per week that I was afforded at McGill. Middlebury’s  program created an immersive learning environment that would force me to speak French, so it immediately seemed like a strong fit.

The part that drew me to Middlebury Language Schools the most was their “Language Pledge.” Each student who participates in one of their programs must sign a pledge to speak only their designated language during their time there. Students who have never spoken the language before sign the pledge after two weeks.

Being accepted was just the first step in my preparation to attend summer courses at another university. The process to transfer credits involved taking a test with the French Language Center at McGill to apply the credits from Middlebury toward my French minor. Since transfer credits do not impact a person’s GPA at McGill, I felt more at ease with taking courses that I might have been too intimidated to take at McGill out of the worry that I would not receive a good mark.

Though I originally intended to join the undergraduate program, I was asked by an admissions representative to apply for the graduate program instead–I was eventually accepted and placed. What initially seemed like a fun challenge quickly became daunting. Upon arrival in July, I learned that I was the youngest person in all my classes by roughly three years, and my classmates varied greatly in experience. Some students had just completed their bachelor’s degrees, a few others were currently working as French teachers, and one man was a retired lawyer in his eighties.

Beyond the challenges that these age gaps presented, the course itself was rigorous and getting used to my daily schedule required a steep learning curve. I had three classes a day from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.–during which I was held to my Language Pledge and only permitted to speak French. After classes, I typically had anywhere from one to four hours of homework. The stress of this environment grew to take a toll on me emotionally and physically; I was extremely sleep deprived and neither had the time nor energy to practice adequate self-care.

That’s not to say that I didn’t learn from this. The intensive learning setting and rapid pace of assignments taught me the importance of organizing my time wisely. I did not have time to get intimidated by how much work I had because I was always so busy with assignments. After six weeks at Middlebury, I realized how much I had gained outside of learning the difference between the gerund and present participle and other ups and downs of reciting French.

Though it might be difficult to embark on a new academic adventure after finding one’s footing at McGill, all students should consider taking classes at another university to build new experiences. My time at Middlebury helped me grow as a student; the small, intensive environment facilitated my educational experience, and with my new level of French knowledge I’ll be able to live in Francophone communities.

 
Album Reviews, Arts & Entertainment, Music

Album Review: ‘Luv is Rage 2’ – Lil Uzi Vert

Hip hop artist Lil Uzi Vert made waves earlier in 2017 with his triple-platinum single “XO Tour Llif3.” As with many artists’ debut albums following a hit single, Luv is Rage 2 strives to hit the same mark as its single with varying degrees of success.

The album opens with “Two,” a droning filler track, but then immediately drops its first banger, “444+222.” The high-energy beat and commanding chorus make it easy to dance to. Uzi transitions seamlessly between the tense chorus and the release of quirky, melodic verses accompanied by a light-hearted synth pattern. This one is made for the club.

“Sauce it up” aims to replicate the success of “XO Tour Llife3,” but falls shy of its target. “No Sleep Leak” comes a bit closer. Its catchy, melancholy chorus and slapping 808s make this track stand out, and put it in a parallel lane to “Tour Llife3.” The track brings out the best of Uzi’s sing-songy trap style, and its vocals capture Uzi’s desperation.

Another standout, “The Way Life Goes” brings out Uzi’s rockstar side. Melodic and driven by a rolling synth line, it strikes at the core of Uzi’s heartache and is a great benchmark of Uzi’s stylistic direction: A murky area between glam rock and southern trap.

“For Real” is experimental—which is commendable—but delves too far away from Uzi’s usual style. It sounds like Uzi took every unusable synth preset he could find and rapped over them.

“Feelings Mutual” is the best new track on the album. The swung synth and 808s are completely new to mainstream trap production; Thank you WondaGurl, of Brampton, Ontario. The bass hits just right, the chorus comes in strong, and Uzi puts actual work into the track’s angsty verses. This is peak Uzi.

“Neon Guts” is just as strong. The bassline combines SoundCloud rap’s characteristic distorted 808s with a funky riff. Pharrell’s voice melts into the instrumental, and Uzi’s singing manages to hold his own weight. Its one of the most unique and replayable songs on the album.

This is where the album fades for me. Uzi follows it up with “Early 20 Rager,” an experimental letdown, “UnFazed,” a waste of a Weeknd feature, “Pretty Mami,” which features a worthwhile chorus, but not much else, and “How to Talk,” which goes on for way too long.

Then, the listener reaches an oasis. You’re going to hear “X” slapping from car stereos. This track could have easily been a single. “Malfunction” and “Dark Queen” finish the album strongly. The latter, an anthem to Uzi’s mom, is one of the most lyrical and sincere tracks of the album, albeit a bit too drawn out.

And, finally, “XO Tour Llife3” caps the project. Compared to the rest of the album, this track feels the most organized. Uzi is a creative storm that needs to be balanced with a clear musical formula, and of all of the tracks on Luv is Rage 2, “XO Tour Llife3” does this the best.

Commentary, Opinion

The importance of conscientious thrifting

For most McGill students, the term “thrifting” inspires a host of sensory images—dusty fur coats and yellowed lace, Grandma Martha’s prom dress, those perfect light-wash Levi’s shorts with just the right amount of distress, and an astounding quantity of unnamed articles from the ‘70’s. From Value Village to vintage boutiques on St-Laurent, Montreal offers a range of thrift stores for McGill students to choose from. Few thrifters, however, stop to consider the bounty of jeans, sweaters, and shoes that the stores provide to families living on a hand to mouth budget. Many cannot afford the indulgent experience of shopping at a local Roots. Consequently, when the more affluent shopper thrifts without thought, under the assumption that the concept originated for them and has always been theirs, they are appropriating the idea of thrifting.   

While thrifting has increasingly become a trend amongst the financially stable, particularly teenagers and young adults, the idea of second-hand apparel offered at a discounted price was originally intended to appeal to a far different audience. Organizations  such as the Salvation Army and Goodwill were founded on the principles of providing affordable clothing options for lower-income families, as well as job opportunities through community networking and fundraising. Although initially targeted at those unable to shop at full price stores, such organizations appeal to the broader population because of several key factors: The clothes are cheap, they come in bulk, and for the environmentally responsible, they are sustainable. With changing trends and a social tendency to look to the past for fashion cues, these stores also provide people with easy and cheap access to vintage and quirky clothing.

Over time, the traditional warehouse-type stores gave birth to pricier, boutique thrift stores, such as Eva-B, KILOfripe, and Le Chaînon inc. near campus, where the type and quality of the clothing are more strictly curated.These stores are inaccessible to those who truly rely on thrift shopping and instead target the prototypical Montreal hipster and trend-chasing college student with money to spend. The Salvation Army, on the other hand, seeks to provide economic opportunities for those simply seeking to clothe their children in winter without breaking the bank. In major cities such as Toronto and New York, some stores–still dubbed “thrift”–offer designer brands and expensive labels, where a jacket or blouse might still come with a hefty price tag. Urban Outfitters has even begun to integrate recycled yard sale items into their clothing lines, by making them into pricy “custom” dresses and tops marketed as vintage. Shopping at any one of these variations of pseudo-thrift stores is thereby not an act of economic valiance, but rather one of privilege, as the items may cost as much as—if not more than—other full priced clothing stores.

Thrifting in itself is not inherently wrong; it may be done for a variety of cost-effective or environmentally friendly reasons. However, self-proclaimed, middle-to-upper-class thrifters must understand its origins and social implications. The increasingly large rift between economic classes widens and tensions arise when one group treats another’s needs as a commodity or past-time activity. While thrifting might be a seemingly inconsequential factor in this process, on the broader scope of social reality where individuals of different economic positions work and live alongside one another, this tension makes it difficult to coexist without conflict. McGill students, if unaware of the implications of their trendy finds, are no better than any other ignorant thrifter, contributing to class divisions with each toss of fabric into their cart.

This doesn’t mean that each time a student’s friends drag them on a bargain bin dig or they pass through the doors of a Goodwill, there must be a mental giving of alms. However, understanding a basic background of thrifting, and what it means for others for whom it is a necessity rather than a leisurely Saturday activity, are useful steps in decreasing potential offence to shoppers who may come from different backgrounds or financial situations. It is this sort of attitude that permits cohabitation in the aisles, so that whether you’re searching for an off-brand summer staple or needing a marked down winter coat, thrifting provides a universally accessible option outside the retail norm.  

 

 

Keira is a U0 Arts student, with no real idea of what she plans on studying next year. She's travelled all over Southern Africa and have even been to Madagascar.

 

 

 

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