There are only a few things in the culinary world that I’m truly averse to: green bell peppers, scallops, and blue cheese. The first is an under-ripe version of the sweet, delightful, red pepper, while scallops are too fishy to be appetizing, and blue cheese just makes me want to brush my teeth.

There’s something about moldy cheese—be it roquefort, gorgonzola, or fromage bleu d’Auvergne—that makes me ill. No amount of creaminess can balance that sharp bite and pungent odor, and the aftertaste that lingers for hours.

When I heard that L’emporte-pièce in the Plateau was serving grilled cheese with blue cheese and two of my favourite foods—caramelized onions and raisin bread—I was conflicted. The menu presents three grown-up versions of this comfort food: classic apple and local cheddar, gruyere and roast beef, and the moldy-cheese-meets-sweet-onions combination. At $7 per sandwich, it’s certainly more expensive than white bread and melted Kraft Singles, but then again, it also contains real cheese.

I decided to be adventurous, knowing the worst thing that could happen would be that I’d have to order a second cheesy treat. However, I was pleasantly surprised: the sweet raisin bread—fresh from a Hochelega bakery—and caramelized onions balanced the sharp cheese, and on the whole it tasted delightfully creamy. I won’t be adding blue cheese to my salads or topping burgers with it anytime soon, but it’s no longer on my food blacklist.

Most restaurants in the St. Denis area are overpriced, overcrowded, and underwhelming. But head north past Mont Royal, and you’ll find a hole in the wall that’s worthy of its prices and that pairs casual food with good French wine. Since opening in April, L’emporte-pièce has reigned in a large variety of customers, ranging from students searching for coffee that’s not from Second Cup, to business people looking for decent lunch and dinner fare.

With friendly staff and the kitchen in full view, L’emporte-pièce is a chicer version of the nearby Patati Patata. Seating is limited to a few small tables, but an outdoor terrace triples the capacity in temperate weather. The restaurant is redefining takeout, with freshly prepared meals that combine bistro quality with the ease of fast food.

The menu changes every few days, and this week’s specials included gazpacho, a salmon wrap with mango and yogourt, and chicken with a Hungarian paprika sauce. Their famous grilled cheese, however, remains the same year-round. Paired with a glass of Côte du Rhône, a microbrew, or sangria, all of which are cheap ($4.50 per serving), L’emporte-pièce will impress  even the snobbiest of cheese connoisseurs.

L’emporte-pièce also serves breakfast, with coffee from the 49th Parallel. Their French pastries leave something to be desired, but considering that one person serves as a host, server, and cook, it’s easy to understand.

Where: 418 Gilford, just north of St. Denis and Mont Royal.

Open Monday–Friday, 7:00 a.m.–10:00 p.m. and Saturday–Sunday, 8:30 a.m.–10 p.m.